Photos below taken of the car before I bought it.

Photos taken by the owner replying to my add on Kijiji.   It is supported by jack stands under the bumpers.

Notice how the rear wheels are not lining up with the front wheels ?

The goKart frame was three inches too wide for the fibreglass body and the trunk lid had been replaced with sheet metal.

The plan was to control the rear brakes and throttle with the hand levers on the aircraft style steering wheel. Since the body was too wide for the frame it was supported on pieces of plywood.

Lifting the body from the frame and removing unwanted weight.

For some reason the back wheels are set 3 inches in from the front wheels ? why, who knows.

With the body off I can now start cutting away unwanted material, like the seat and bumpers.

The engine mount, the jack shaft and sprocket assembly and any other metal I can get rid of.

Both rear wheel axels were 5/8" fine thread bolts, so they got to go, I will make a new axel the proper length.

Front and rear axels and steering, gone.

The frame was too wide for the body so I took 1½" from each side and rewelded

That looks better, now the body will sit over the edge of the frame and not on the frame.

Placing the body on the frame for a quick measurment, I think I will lower the body 2" lower.

The transaxle is sitting on a couple of wooden blocks for measurment purposes

Looking forward from the drivers seat.

Removing required components from the sacrifical scooter.

This is the scooter I plan to scrap and save all usefull parts.

I was unrepairable when I received it but I repaired what was necessary.

lifting off the hood and seat, the back end can be seporated.

The transaxel and batteries removed I will now take off the control fairing

These are the parts I don't need, so I will put them in storage.

This is all I have kept from the scooter. The touch pad controlled the headlights, horn, signal lights, Master speed controller, battery capacity indicator, four way flasher

Fitting the transaxle and sprocket drive, and locating electronic components.

I machined a sprocket mount that will be bolted to the inside of each rear wheel.

The sprockets from Princess Auto have a 1.625 internal diameter

looking good but not quite what I want.

The trannsaxle was opened to check the condition of gears and bearings. I replaced the honey like lubricant with gear oil.

Everything looks good in the transaxle. Now to get it back together.

The transaxle sitting on wooden block for a measurment and the two steel .625 thick discs will be machined to ¾ bore then broached for the key and a sholder to mount the sprockets.

Shafts on the transaxle are ¾" and the alignment to the sprockets on the drive wheels looks good.

The right hand drive wheel. You can also see where the body area had been cut away.

1" by 2" steel tubing with tension adjusting slots welded to the frame, the transaxle will sit on top.

Transaxle sitting in place. I think this is going to work, not knowing the final top speed or if the scooter motor will have enough power to drive the car, I designed the drive sprockets so I could easly change the ratio.

The drive wheels on the car are larger diameter than the scooter wheels, so if the sprockets are equal then the car will go faster but not have the less power.

A close up of the bracket of the transaxle on the adjustable rails, I have since added bolts that will allow me to tune the chain tension easier.

I cut a piece of ¼ Birch Plywood as a floor to mount the electronic control box and the battery charger. Transaxle, wheel axle and brake shafts all removed for easy install of the plywood.

All drive components installed and test driven while on the saw horses. The wooden frame is to house the batteries and a seat for me to sit on that will be covered with some nice soft foam

A view from the front with the steering wheel back plate mounted and the touch pad in the steering wheel ready to be connected. the grey wires in front of the steering column are for the ignition “key switch” and the front headlights and signal lights.

Designing and machining the receiver and trailer hitch ball.

I thought it would be realy cool to have a trailer hitch on the little ford. So I found a .625 dia steel ball from a discarded ball bearing and machined a 5/16 bolt with a slight cup to set the ball on.

This is looking OK so now to get the tourch set out and silver solder the ball to the bolt.

The bolt and ball have to be red hot to be silver soldered and this now needs to be polished.

The ball bolted to the ¾ by ¾ square tubing.

This square metal was the welded to the frame to hold the bumpers to the front and back of the car. I saved them when I cut them off..

The hitch now fits snuggly into the 1 by 1 square tubing welded to the back of the car. I will make a trailer connector to fit the ball when I get a chance.

Designing and machining the steering wheel to incorporate the control membrane.

I used the Dremel to rough cut the touch pad membrane from the scooter faring. I cleaned up the edges and took some measurments to enter the CNC file.

Using some high dense foam I machined the back first. Foam is cheap and easy to mill and I may have to make more cut adjustments before I machine the sugar maple.

I also machined the 10ga steel back plate, this will be screwed to the back of the steering wheel and bolted to the steering column.

seen here is the extra cut out area for the electronic circuit board that extended beyond the oval, this looks pretty good.

Flipping the material over I will machine the front of the wheel, the Ford logo and other text.

This is looking good. however the text needs to be adjusted more to the centre, I want to round over the outer edge of the wheel and that may interfere with the text.

I scrapped the first foam model, this is the second attempt, I adjusted the text and logo and also allowed more room for the circuit board plugs and wires. there are 27 wires from the steering wheel circuit board that have to exit out the back.

My neighbour discarded a Maple dining room table with a solid 1" top, I brought it home and am now machining the thin venere and from 2" to 1¾ thick.

The back is finished maching, the little step is for the metal back plate.

A 60 degree V bit is used to evgrave the Ford Logo, I took the logo .jpg from the internet, then edited it to fit.

After the machining I slipped the touch pad in place for a dry fit, looks OK.

I have room for the circuit board plugs and wires.

Here the wires come through the back plate and I will connect all then use wood screws to fit the back plate to the wooden wheel.

So, there you have it, the speed control knob is not in place yet but I think it looks pretty darn good,

Refitting the trunk lid and replacing the damaged body fiberglas.

The trunk lid had been replaced with metal and the vents were to exhaust the engine heat and fumes.

Here you can see the frame is too wide for the body.

A better look at the frame, also the bumper pins still have to be removed.

There are lots of holes , bangs and dents in the body. I have never had any experience working with fiberglas but I am willing to try.

The right rear fender had been butchered.

Also the left rear fender.

I took the body to the fiberglass expert “Dave Meisel” for a profecional opinion on the repairs, Dave thinks this will be a easy job and fun to do.

May 8 2014 I began grinding the old material out to prepare for the rebuild.

There was a large chunk of fiberglas cut from below the trunk to allow the gasoline engine exhaust to vent, but now I want to put that back in place.

The bottom skirt from between the front fenders had been cut out so I thought I would replace that as well.

The trunk is supported by some wooden braces so I can locate the fibreglass piece that had been cut out.

I used the existing hinge holes to support the little wooden blocks.

I began patching the missing area and when that cures I will remove my temporary blocks and fill in those spots. Notice how much body area is missing on the back fenders, that's next.

The area to be filled is at least ¾" to 1" wide.

The missing rear fender area is more difficult to make a mold, but Dave Meisel gave me some foam board with paper on each side about ¼" thick, then put aluminum tape on the form and the fibreglas will not stick to the aluminum.

This is a view from the inside.

It would be nice to have a little bit of a flare at the trailing edge of the fender.

The foam and the aluminim tape sure works well and is easy to use.

Trying to make the rolled edge is a new challange, I suppose I will use a filler ?.

Putting the skirt along the back and wrapping around to meet the fender flare is going to be the next issue.

Final assembly and checking to see if everything works.